GLIDING ACROSS the bay with the wind in my sail, I realised it was time to turn. You pay for a certain confidence in the cooking and the service – friendly rather than stiff – which make the meal even more enjoyable.CORN STREET, in the historic centre of Bristol, has a farmers’ market selling local produce every other Wednesday, with the next one on 26 August (tel: 0117 922 4484).Radford Mill Farm Shop (tel: 0117 924 5360) in Montpellier has organic vegetables and other good food. But far from being old-fashioned, it is a true treat and well worth the money. Squid stewed in red wine with fennel, orange and chilli (pounds 6.75) and duck with a honey glaze, peas and Sauternes sauce (pounds 15.95) were perfectly judged and made with that evolved good taste of a chef who loves and understands food. The cafe/deli downstairs and restaurant upstairs both have balcony tables if you want river breezes.

My grilled halibut with chorizo, clams and basil butter sauce (pounds 13.75) and gooseberries with honey and saffron custard (pounds 3.75) were both excellent.One of the most established smart restaurants in Bristol is Markwicks (tel: 0117 926 2658). More expensive than the other restaurants mentioned here, its food, style and clientele are less obviously Nineties. Here, the interior is partly decked out in old shop fittings, with shelves that are well-stocked with liqueurs, antique bottles and big jars of preserved lemons and pickles The food is well-flavoured and unfussy. A duck soup with noodles had good stock and my panna cotta, deliciously cool and slippery, came with gooseberries fragrant with elderflower I particularly liked their refreshing citron presse. Two courses cost pounds 12.95 and three pounds 15.95.Meanwhile, the former owner of Bell’s Diner has gone on to Bristol’s best new restaurant, riverstation (tel: 0117 914 4434) in a former river police station.

Organic when possible, it serves tapas, Sunday brunches and restaurant food in a friendly atmosphere. The informal charm can tip into the casual, but overall, its style, food and ethos are enjoyable and admirable. A broad spectrum of prices means you can snack, or spend up to around pounds 30 for dinner.A former chef from Rocinantes has gone on to Bell’s Diner (tel: 0117 924 0357) in the district of Montpellier. So it comes as a bit of a surprise to spot both ostrich and red snapper on the menu, not to mention deeply unseasonal chestnuts.